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The North Face® Athlete Hervè Barmasse returned from the expedition to Baintha Brakk (7,285m), also known as Ogre – in the Karakorum (Pakistan), after 48 days.
Although the tough weather conditions prevented the expedition team from summiting ‘Ogre’, on 28th July 2012 The North Face® athlete Hervè Barmasse together with his team of Italian mountaineers Daniele Bernasconi and Martin Peterlongo, successfully completed three first ascents and a first ski descent, on peaks above 5500m , adding to their list of already impressive achievements.
The acclimatisation at base camp near Snow Lake lasted 9 days where they made a first ascent and traverse of a northern peak (6330m). On 11th July 2012 Hervé and the other climbers set out to achieve their original goal. As they approached the base of Ogre by skis, carrying equipment by sled across an area known as ‘Snow Lake’, looking up at the wall the team saw that their dreams were not to be realised. Heavy snowfall in the days before had left the mountain impossible to climb.
The North Face Expedition Team achieved a second successful ascent, boasting also a first ski descent, which took place on an untouched 5966m peak, in the shadow of Ogre, shrouded in clouds.
As the weather cleared, the team returned once again to the foot of Ogre, but were met with metre-high snow, so had no choice but to walk away. The final first ascent of the expedition was a treacherous 5850m peak, an exciting climb but one that couldn’t replace the joy of what could have been if they had reached the summit of Ogre.
Hervé stated: “Every expedition is a vacation, a journey, a life experience which gives us lots of emotions, memories and anecdotes. So, even if we were unsuccessful on Baintha Brakk, the 32 days spent in one of the most unknown places of the Karakorum have been a great opportunity for me. I really hope that one day this enchanted place could become a destination for many other climbers.”
Total days of expedition: 48 days
Total days of good weather: 13 days
Base Camp: between Sing Gang Glacier and Snow Lake
First ascents of previously unclimbed summits: 3 (6330m, 5966m, 5850m peak)
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Image may be NSFW.
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Image may be NSFW.
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Credits:
Photographer: The North Face®Hervé Barmasse
Athlete: The North Face®Hervé BarmasseImage may be NSFW.
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